Someone liked this enough to add to a best of flickr site. Sweet!
Saturday, February 26, 2005
Hey, Pops! It's a Pilot Boat.
For anyone who hasn't suffered through my singing along with Jimmy Buffett. I am a son of a son of a sailor. And here's a Pilot's boat coming into Fremantle Harbor in memory of Albert senior.
Ahh...Fremantle
Where did I leave off… Gotta read back and find out… Oh that’s right I left off on Wednesday and a check of the watch tells me it’s Saturday. Gotta love that I have no idea what day it is.
Well, Wednesday afternoon walked into the hostel and a solicitation to go to Rottness Island by way of a chartered 65 foot catch. Being only 20% more than the ferry ride, I was definitely in. Cooked ravioli and sautéed bell pepper – no idea where this came from but it wasn’t bad. Went to bed after an ice cream and a walk in the park, the good and the bad. Three ice cream shops on our street and a beautiful park at the end overlooking the harbour and sea.
Awoke through mere excitement before 8 and walked to the Sundancer for a 9 am departure. It was a bit crowded with 16 people, yet the size of the yacht still allowed for plenty of room to stretch your legs (Or even fall asleep on the aft deck). We sailed to Carnac Island first were we snorkeled with Sea Lions, yet I stayed in the dingy in hopes of catching a few pictures (Oh the sacrifices…). They were hilarious and very playful, one came up to the stern of the dingy and rolling over to take in a good eyeful of me. Sitting 2 feet from this guy smiling at me made me wonder how much of a difference there was between the two of us.
Hoped back aboard the yacht for the 2 hour sail to Rottness Island. The wind built to about 20 knots and it was glorious. Full genoa, staysail, and main on a broad reach; cruising in 30 feet of water and able to see the differences in the sea bottom - royal blue for the rock and emerald green for the sand. The smell of fresh sea air, no humidity, and 75 degrees under blue skies: days like this are what I live for.
Amazed by Rottness’ beauty and peacefulness. No private vehicles, salt lakes, white beaches, rocky cliffs, and crystal clear Indian Ocean. A stop at the bakery for my new favorite Australian dish, a meat pie (basically a fresh, homemade pot-pie you eat with your hands) and then a walk around for 3 hours before the sail back to Fremantle. The night then commenced with a good-bye night on the town with a group from the hostel (these happen every other night due to the simultaneously transitory and jolly nature of the residents).
Friday was another day for relaxing. Booked a 9 day outback safari commencing on the 5th of March (I can’t freakin’ wait! Check it out here). Then looked into bus rides and accommodations to the Margaret River area where I intend to tour wineries and excellent food for a few days. Burned some CD’s for friends in the lobby and watched another tearful goodbye. Feeling the sting of impermanence a bit today. You make friends everyday with amazing people, and everyday you say goodbye to them. Spent the afternoon having tea at a café thinking about how alone one can be surrounded by people. But I had to wonder if this is not just a magnification of the issues we face in permanent life as well; everyone always leaves your life. Maybe the lesson to learn is to just enjoy the time you have. Then I was brought out of my funk by Ina, the picture you have in your mind of a friendly 6 foot, blonde, German girl with a permanent smile. Joined me in the sun for an hour. Got an ice cream and walked to the shore with my camera. The sun promised to set in an hour or so and I was blessed with the warm red light that comes at the end of a clear blue day. Walked about watching the birds, people, water, sun. The end of the day at the end of land is so peaceful somehow. It exemplifies closure of the day and the infinity of the world simultaneously. When traveling and having nothing but possibility lying before me, the horizon taunts with the next movement. The next sunset, the next ocean, the next day.
Came back to the hostel only to be offered a job. Some guy walked into the hostel needing “computer help”, so I nearly jumped off the couch at the excitement of working. (I’m pathetic) It’s funny how I miss being challenged, or maybe it’s that I miss being needed. Lately I’m this anonymous shadow floating through foreign countries and ephemeral relationships. Nonetheless, I love the flexibility to change plans by at least a week and maybe more at the drop of a hat. And I finally went for a night tour of the old Fremantle Prison. Built by convicts in the 1850’s and used until 1991, it was a pretty creepy place. After all, that’s the point of the flashlight lit night tour.
Today went to “work” for about 3 hours and was presented a project by a scatterbrained but apparently very successful entrepreneur. We then sang happy birthday to someone in the hostel, when I leave I’ll never see her again, but I still meant then wishes. I might have meant it even more. Then I crashed the German “girls night out”, but was welcomed as the pseudo-gay friend. We watched “Finding Neverland”. It was a truly magical night, possibly my best ever movie watching experience. Two Germans, a Brit (Yorkshire, the accent is endlessly entertaining) and myself went to an outdoor theater. We had oven-fired pizzas before the show and then watched a fantastic fairy tail with a bottle of Shiraz from a Poplar lined lawn and watched the clouds playing peek-a-boo with Orion.
So now I’m back, coping CD’s into iTunes (Portishead, Morcheeba, and Spearhead). Looking forward to hearing these tunes walking on my next beach or mountain. I’ll go to my “work” tomorrow, but I really have nothing but possibility for the next few months. Wait, no… nothing but possibilities forever.
Well, Wednesday afternoon walked into the hostel and a solicitation to go to Rottness Island by way of a chartered 65 foot catch. Being only 20% more than the ferry ride, I was definitely in. Cooked ravioli and sautéed bell pepper – no idea where this came from but it wasn’t bad. Went to bed after an ice cream and a walk in the park, the good and the bad. Three ice cream shops on our street and a beautiful park at the end overlooking the harbour and sea.
Awoke through mere excitement before 8 and walked to the Sundancer for a 9 am departure. It was a bit crowded with 16 people, yet the size of the yacht still allowed for plenty of room to stretch your legs (Or even fall asleep on the aft deck). We sailed to Carnac Island first were we snorkeled with Sea Lions, yet I stayed in the dingy in hopes of catching a few pictures (Oh the sacrifices…). They were hilarious and very playful, one came up to the stern of the dingy and rolling over to take in a good eyeful of me. Sitting 2 feet from this guy smiling at me made me wonder how much of a difference there was between the two of us.
Hoped back aboard the yacht for the 2 hour sail to Rottness Island. The wind built to about 20 knots and it was glorious. Full genoa, staysail, and main on a broad reach; cruising in 30 feet of water and able to see the differences in the sea bottom - royal blue for the rock and emerald green for the sand. The smell of fresh sea air, no humidity, and 75 degrees under blue skies: days like this are what I live for.
Amazed by Rottness’ beauty and peacefulness. No private vehicles, salt lakes, white beaches, rocky cliffs, and crystal clear Indian Ocean. A stop at the bakery for my new favorite Australian dish, a meat pie (basically a fresh, homemade pot-pie you eat with your hands) and then a walk around for 3 hours before the sail back to Fremantle. The night then commenced with a good-bye night on the town with a group from the hostel (these happen every other night due to the simultaneously transitory and jolly nature of the residents).
Friday was another day for relaxing. Booked a 9 day outback safari commencing on the 5th of March (I can’t freakin’ wait! Check it out here). Then looked into bus rides and accommodations to the Margaret River area where I intend to tour wineries and excellent food for a few days. Burned some CD’s for friends in the lobby and watched another tearful goodbye. Feeling the sting of impermanence a bit today. You make friends everyday with amazing people, and everyday you say goodbye to them. Spent the afternoon having tea at a café thinking about how alone one can be surrounded by people. But I had to wonder if this is not just a magnification of the issues we face in permanent life as well; everyone always leaves your life. Maybe the lesson to learn is to just enjoy the time you have. Then I was brought out of my funk by Ina, the picture you have in your mind of a friendly 6 foot, blonde, German girl with a permanent smile. Joined me in the sun for an hour. Got an ice cream and walked to the shore with my camera. The sun promised to set in an hour or so and I was blessed with the warm red light that comes at the end of a clear blue day. Walked about watching the birds, people, water, sun. The end of the day at the end of land is so peaceful somehow. It exemplifies closure of the day and the infinity of the world simultaneously. When traveling and having nothing but possibility lying before me, the horizon taunts with the next movement. The next sunset, the next ocean, the next day.
Came back to the hostel only to be offered a job. Some guy walked into the hostel needing “computer help”, so I nearly jumped off the couch at the excitement of working. (I’m pathetic) It’s funny how I miss being challenged, or maybe it’s that I miss being needed. Lately I’m this anonymous shadow floating through foreign countries and ephemeral relationships. Nonetheless, I love the flexibility to change plans by at least a week and maybe more at the drop of a hat. And I finally went for a night tour of the old Fremantle Prison. Built by convicts in the 1850’s and used until 1991, it was a pretty creepy place. After all, that’s the point of the flashlight lit night tour.
Today went to “work” for about 3 hours and was presented a project by a scatterbrained but apparently very successful entrepreneur. We then sang happy birthday to someone in the hostel, when I leave I’ll never see her again, but I still meant then wishes. I might have meant it even more. Then I crashed the German “girls night out”, but was welcomed as the pseudo-gay friend. We watched “Finding Neverland”. It was a truly magical night, possibly my best ever movie watching experience. Two Germans, a Brit (Yorkshire, the accent is endlessly entertaining) and myself went to an outdoor theater. We had oven-fired pizzas before the show and then watched a fantastic fairy tail with a bottle of Shiraz from a Poplar lined lawn and watched the clouds playing peek-a-boo with Orion.
So now I’m back, coping CD’s into iTunes (Portishead, Morcheeba, and Spearhead). Looking forward to hearing these tunes walking on my next beach or mountain. I’ll go to my “work” tomorrow, but I really have nothing but possibility for the next few months. Wait, no… nothing but possibilities forever.
Wednesday, February 23, 2005
Actually Slowing Down...More
So I am slowing down even more, which 2 weeks ago I would have told you was an impossibility. But here's the catch up on what's been happening:
Went sailing on Sunday and it was fantastic. We competed in the sixty something annual HMS Perth regatta (celebrating the heroic sinking of the ship in WWII). There were 110 boats racing on the Swan River, which is the main body of water for Perth and it's suburbs. There are two 24-foot bridges leading to the ocean, so most boats in the Swan are quite small. We raced on a 22-foot E-Boat outfitted for racing, and it was one of the largest. Arriving at the Yacht Club was fantastic. Mostly dinghies and of every type you could image. A huge green lawn along the water covered with everything from 50 year old skiffs, Lasers, Hobie 16s, 29ers, 49ers, to even a hydrofoil sail boat which was amazing to see sail. As we started off with a crew of 5 the wind began to build. On the first test jibe of the spinnaker the "Doctor" came to town and we had to douse the kite for the day. (Now for full effect you have to imagine doctor pronounced with an Australian accent) The doctor is the seabreeze that kicks in around 2pm. Race started at 2:20 with sustained 35 knot winds and gusts to 45 - it was a blast. Especially fun watching the 49ers come screaming by double trapped, spinnaker flying on a broad reach.
Finished the day with Rum and Cokes at the awards ceremony, dinner at the hostel, and a sleep of the dead.
Monday was filled with... not really filled at all. Walked around Fremantle (I've been misspelling this and was corrected with "nothing’s free in Fremantle") Planned and invited folks for dinner and fixed the sound system in the TV room for the hostel. Then I went on to one of my 4 hour dinner preparations. I was in heaven, made grilled salmon (they have a Weber here!) , steamed broccoli, fettuccini with a sautéed garlic sauce, and bruchetta. This was complemented with 3 or 4 bottles of excellent Australian wine. My guests included Nanni an Italian (whose help with the pasta was invaluable), Jeroen from the Netherlands (my bunkmate), and the beautiful Anne-lise of France who could seduce me with her accent even if she was calling me a boar-faced toad. The dinner actually attracted photos and then more guests to enjoy more wine. First there was an Austrian chef proclaiming she was impressed with the salmon, and you could trust this chef. Then a German, a Swiss, an Irish, a British, and then a few hours later we finally repeated with a second German. (Thank God everyone speaks English)
Tuesday I went and finally invested in some running shoes and jogged a path along the coast which was phenomenally beautiful. The grounds are natural, but manicured. The beach is white and the water bright blues and greens (Indian Ocean is amazing). And top it off with 75 degrees and zero humidity. Upon return Anne-lise invited me back to the beach for a swim followed up by great conversation lounging on a pristine beach we had nearly to ourselves. Conversations I’m having with travelers tend to always include discussions of non-commitment. They don’t know where they want to live, how long they want to stay somewhere, but especially they don’t want to commit to any decision that stops perpetual movement. Then Nanni joined us for a trip in to Perth's Kings Park to toast sunset with a local Shiraz. Finally made dinner around 10 (chicken piccata) which again drew representation of at least 5 countries.
Today I am nursing a bit of a sunburn and think I'll try to pick up my reading again that has stopped since I left Indonesia. The hammocks in the backyard of this place look very inviting. Freo as it is called (all names are shorted in Australia), is fantastic. I am really treating myself like I'm just on vacation here, and I'm finally beginning to feel a little less guilty about it. Curious how this will effect my overall work ethic. The Europeans can't believe how little vacation we get in the States - and I'm starting to agree that taking 4 month vacations are a good idea.
Went sailing on Sunday and it was fantastic. We competed in the sixty something annual HMS Perth regatta (celebrating the heroic sinking of the ship in WWII). There were 110 boats racing on the Swan River, which is the main body of water for Perth and it's suburbs. There are two 24-foot bridges leading to the ocean, so most boats in the Swan are quite small. We raced on a 22-foot E-Boat outfitted for racing, and it was one of the largest. Arriving at the Yacht Club was fantastic. Mostly dinghies and of every type you could image. A huge green lawn along the water covered with everything from 50 year old skiffs, Lasers, Hobie 16s, 29ers, 49ers, to even a hydrofoil sail boat which was amazing to see sail. As we started off with a crew of 5 the wind began to build. On the first test jibe of the spinnaker the "Doctor" came to town and we had to douse the kite for the day. (Now for full effect you have to imagine doctor pronounced with an Australian accent) The doctor is the seabreeze that kicks in around 2pm. Race started at 2:20 with sustained 35 knot winds and gusts to 45 - it was a blast. Especially fun watching the 49ers come screaming by double trapped, spinnaker flying on a broad reach.
Finished the day with Rum and Cokes at the awards ceremony, dinner at the hostel, and a sleep of the dead.
Monday was filled with... not really filled at all. Walked around Fremantle (I've been misspelling this and was corrected with "nothing’s free in Fremantle") Planned and invited folks for dinner and fixed the sound system in the TV room for the hostel. Then I went on to one of my 4 hour dinner preparations. I was in heaven, made grilled salmon (they have a Weber here!) , steamed broccoli, fettuccini with a sautéed garlic sauce, and bruchetta. This was complemented with 3 or 4 bottles of excellent Australian wine. My guests included Nanni an Italian (whose help with the pasta was invaluable), Jeroen from the Netherlands (my bunkmate), and the beautiful Anne-lise of France who could seduce me with her accent even if she was calling me a boar-faced toad. The dinner actually attracted photos and then more guests to enjoy more wine. First there was an Austrian chef proclaiming she was impressed with the salmon, and you could trust this chef. Then a German, a Swiss, an Irish, a British, and then a few hours later we finally repeated with a second German. (Thank God everyone speaks English)
Tuesday I went and finally invested in some running shoes and jogged a path along the coast which was phenomenally beautiful. The grounds are natural, but manicured. The beach is white and the water bright blues and greens (Indian Ocean is amazing). And top it off with 75 degrees and zero humidity. Upon return Anne-lise invited me back to the beach for a swim followed up by great conversation lounging on a pristine beach we had nearly to ourselves. Conversations I’m having with travelers tend to always include discussions of non-commitment. They don’t know where they want to live, how long they want to stay somewhere, but especially they don’t want to commit to any decision that stops perpetual movement. Then Nanni joined us for a trip in to Perth's Kings Park to toast sunset with a local Shiraz. Finally made dinner around 10 (chicken piccata) which again drew representation of at least 5 countries.
Today I am nursing a bit of a sunburn and think I'll try to pick up my reading again that has stopped since I left Indonesia. The hammocks in the backyard of this place look very inviting. Freo as it is called (all names are shorted in Australia), is fantastic. I am really treating myself like I'm just on vacation here, and I'm finally beginning to feel a little less guilty about it. Curious how this will effect my overall work ethic. The Europeans can't believe how little vacation we get in the States - and I'm starting to agree that taking 4 month vacations are a good idea.
Saturday, February 19, 2005
Some fav pics from Indonesia
There are tons, but here are my favorites. Any others I should include/exclude from the favorites category?
Pictures at last!
Well it only took 27.5 hours to upload the photos. Thank you locker + wireless internet. A few scragglers to upload but labeling and organizing the mass now. I'll post some favorites to the blog as well.
By the way, today I went to the Freemantle Nautical Museum and saw Australia II, the boat that took the America's cup in 1983 (which I somehow remember). Fantastic museum, beautiful day, and great company.
Followed up with an afternoon in the park, dinner from the hostel kitchen, and The Motorcycle Diaries from the artsy film cinema next door. Great movie to finish off a great day.
Going sailing with someone named Angela tomorrow (only spoken on phone so far) in the Freemantle "Doctor". (Local name for the seabreeze)
Travel is really some good stuff - I'm wishing you all to go and enjoy it.
By the way, today I went to the Freemantle Nautical Museum and saw Australia II, the boat that took the America's cup in 1983 (which I somehow remember). Fantastic museum, beautiful day, and great company.
Followed up with an afternoon in the park, dinner from the hostel kitchen, and The Motorcycle Diaries from the artsy film cinema next door. Great movie to finish off a great day.
Going sailing with someone named Angela tomorrow (only spoken on phone so far) in the Freemantle "Doctor". (Local name for the seabreeze)
Travel is really some good stuff - I'm wishing you all to go and enjoy it.
Looking for inspiration?
Just glad he didn't grab my camera when I was in his face like this. (Thought the monkey's in Ula Watu would have taught me)
Friday, February 18, 2005
G'day, mate...
No, seriously they really speak this way. It's hilarious to be somewhere that speaks English I can't understand. (Of course not as bad as the Scottish guy I bunked next to in Bangkok).
Well, I've made it to Australia. I was very pleased to make it through customs out of Indonesia and into Australia without any hitches (One more passport stamp!). Stayed last two nights in Perth and arrived in Freemantle this morning. Perth was very pretty, clean, and white. It was a bit anti-climatic as I am ~10,000 miles from Austin and the city felt very similar. Ran some errands, slept another night in the far from clean "Planet Inn" and hopped the train to Freemantle. It is quite beautiful here, still very much like the US, but now I'm surrounded by the India Ocean, great food, and lots of boats - so I'm a happy camper.
Another advantage of being back in the West is I'm now on wireless internet again and getting pictures uploaded. It's taking all day - but I'm on no schedule. I'll post some to my blog soon, but for a preview check out my flickr sight.
FYI my cell number in Australia is: 61-424605716 (I know your disappointed, Paul)
Well, I've made it to Australia. I was very pleased to make it through customs out of Indonesia and into Australia without any hitches (One more passport stamp!). Stayed last two nights in Perth and arrived in Freemantle this morning. Perth was very pretty, clean, and white. It was a bit anti-climatic as I am ~10,000 miles from Austin and the city felt very similar. Ran some errands, slept another night in the far from clean "Planet Inn" and hopped the train to Freemantle. It is quite beautiful here, still very much like the US, but now I'm surrounded by the India Ocean, great food, and lots of boats - so I'm a happy camper.
Another advantage of being back in the West is I'm now on wireless internet again and getting pictures uploaded. It's taking all day - but I'm on no schedule. I'll post some to my blog soon, but for a preview check out my flickr sight.
FYI my cell number in Australia is: 61-424605716 (I know your disappointed, Paul)
Wednesday, February 16, 2005
Last day in Bali
Well it's noon here, and I leave for the Airport in 5 hours to catch the redeye to Perth, Australia. I realized this would be a great time to figure out where I intend to stay once I land in that next country at Midnight.
It has been beautiful, fun, and relaxing here in Bali - I hope to return with friends another time. I thought I should mention some of "funny" things here:
*On the ferry between Bali and Lombok, the bathroom had a Indonesian toilet which is basically a porcelain hole in the ground was made by the company American Standard. Something funny about being in a very non-American restroom and seeing the hole in the ground branded "American Standard".
*Driving the scooter has been an adventure in itself. Imagine the density of traffic on New York streets, 90% scooters and dramatically efficient use of the roadway. That means no braking distance, vehicles going both ways in both lanes and did I mention no yielding or stop lights of any sorts and intersections? Craziness...pure craziness.
*The bathroom is the shower
*Toilet paper is a thing you bring with you
*Everyone seems to listen to American music and watch American Movies - and that is interesting way to judge America by
*I've met ~30 Swedes in 3 weeks and 0 Texans, and there are more than twice as many people in Texas as Sweden
Well checking out of Bali in about 8 hours, I this message finds you all well back home.
PS Pictures coming soon....
It has been beautiful, fun, and relaxing here in Bali - I hope to return with friends another time. I thought I should mention some of "funny" things here:
*On the ferry between Bali and Lombok, the bathroom had a Indonesian toilet which is basically a porcelain hole in the ground was made by the company American Standard. Something funny about being in a very non-American restroom and seeing the hole in the ground branded "American Standard".
*Driving the scooter has been an adventure in itself. Imagine the density of traffic on New York streets, 90% scooters and dramatically efficient use of the roadway. That means no braking distance, vehicles going both ways in both lanes and did I mention no yielding or stop lights of any sorts and intersections? Craziness...pure craziness.
*The bathroom is the shower
*Toilet paper is a thing you bring with you
*Everyone seems to listen to American music and watch American Movies - and that is interesting way to judge America by
*I've met ~30 Swedes in 3 weeks and 0 Texans, and there are more than twice as many people in Texas as Sweden
Well checking out of Bali in about 8 hours, I this message finds you all well back home.
PS Pictures coming soon....
Monday, February 14, 2005
Catching up from Ubud
Well here's to gettin' around. Definitely having a blast and nearly wishing I didn't have to leave "so" soon. I have really had the relative length of stays distorted at this point. Over three weeks feels almost quick.
Here's to catching up again.
Started out 5? days ago from Kuta, Bali. Karstein, Annetta,(The Norwegians as they are affectionately know) and I took off on motor bikes to Padangbai to catch the Ferry to Lombok (Next Indonesian island East of Bali). The drive was beautiful again with rice fields, palm trees, ocean, and locals not displaced by tourists. Arrived at Padangbai to enjoy my first taste of unabashed extrusion from a cop there when trying to buy my ferry ticket. With in a few minutes a bargain of 25,000 rupiah was agreed on for him to "let" us go to Lombok where our licenses were not valid. Mind you, that we were not doing anything wrong in Bali, where he was a cop. Took a 5 and 1/2 hour ferry ride to Lombok which was a cultural experience in it's own right. The 2 Swedes on the ferry and ourselves comprised the 5 Westerners out of ~300 passengers. We arrived at lumbar only to wait for the ferry that was docked to move (a process that took nearly an hour). I note this only because it should not have been a surprise that we were on the way. Hopped on the bikes and took off a full speed to evade the extorting cops and made it out of the harbor only to question which way we were going. It was nearing sunset (side note: there is no twilight here, sunset to dark in ~15 minutes) so we sped up the coast as fast as possible and pulled into sensuous, a nice little resort town. Here we checked into an expensive western hotel (135,000/night). We partook in hot water, bathtubs, and air conditioning. (queue the heavenly chorus) I slept like a retiree on a Sunday afternoon after lunch.
About 12 hours later I awoke from my comma, and joined the Norwegians for breakfast and a swim. We then decided that bangle (the public harbor serving traffic to the Giles) would not be a great place to leave our rented scooters unattended for days. So we charted a private boat to Gili Trawangan. We were to be whisked away by car and driver, taken to a harbor to catch our vessel for the 1:45 ride to the Giles. Instead, we walked with a guy to the harbor, waded through the surf to jump on a large dugout outrigger (maybe 20 feet long), driven by a 15 year old for the 3 hour ride to the Giles. Nonetheless it was fantastic. Beautiful views the whole way, and a bit exciting to be in a tiny and authentic boat in the open ocean. Arrived at the Gili's via a beach landing and walked to the Lonely Planet pick for rooms, which proved perfect. Got a room for 25,000/night (less than USD$3/night) which was in the village. Clean and had a private bathroom, working fan, and mosquito netting over the bed. (Funny the things you appreciate when living in places for 3 bucks a night) Funny thing about the Gilis is that there is basically no fresh water, that's right salt water showers, and salt water tooth brushings. And the locals couldn't love it more. (I commited the ultimate western sin and rinsed after a shower with bottled water as well as choosing the tastier but more expensive option for tooth brushing). Went and had a great dinner in a Bruga (Cabana style thing, you sit on the raised floor under a thatched roof) overlooking the crystal clear indian ocean. After dinner I was off for a drink and ran into brits from Kuta who insist I look them up when in the UK - gotta love the commoradery of travelers. Lastly to bed after seeing the sunset, milkly way, and a field of lights on the horizon which I learned were fishing boats. (Apprently you need a lot of fish to feed Indonesia)
Breakfast in the morning and then got some clothes washed. Waiting for them to dry I finished Bobo's in Paradise and read an Economist cover to cover. (things don't dry fast in this humidity, despite being 150 degrees out) Discovered my love for laying in a hammock in the south pacific reading about business from around the world. Also discovered a new distinction in clothing, most T-Shirts are too thick to be warn in the Gili's as they insulate to much - resorted to very light button ups. Went for a swim, talked to some folks, ate dinner, and crashed around 9. This is the good life.
Woke up to the mosque next door at 5 but went back to sleep. The heat got me out of bed by 9:30 and I went on to breakfast. (Another note: even toast takes over an hour to prepare on the Gili's) Followed up with a snorkeling trip on a guide boat. The water is like the carribean; I saw beautifull fish of a thousand varieties off Gili Trawangan, sea turtles off Gili Meno, and Giant Clams off Gili Air. Later I enjoyed a slow lunch on Gili Air, have I mentioned food is VERY slow in the Gili's. This is a good thing though as it puts you in the right frame of mind for how fast your days should be. (Trey's Law: The average heat of an enviroment is inversly proportional to the punctionality of it's people and their stress level.) Got back to Gili Trawangan for a walk around the island, then had diner and crashed at 9 again.
Woke up after trying to sleep in at 8. Went for a snorkle off the beach with the Norwegians and swam with 3 sea turtles! It was fantastic. And somehow 2 hours later I was still not sunburned (unlike my northern travel companions). Stopped for lunch and the rain set it. Left in a sprinkle 3 hours later and went back to read last few articles of the Economist. Then I joined the the Norwegians for dinner, drinks, and darts at a (no kidding) irish pub. Jesse, Julie, Craig and Tamara - wish you guys were here. I won at darts and then talked the Norwegians into bed around 11.
Woke up at 6 and rose the Norwegians so we could catch the 8 am boat back to Lombok. The "public" ferry in to Bangsal only goes once a full load of tickets are sold- but thankfully that only took an hour. Got to Bangsal to haggle for a cheap ride back to Singiggi where we picked up our scooters and sped for harbor at Lembar. Now anyone who has ever camped with my over-prepared, exceedingly overpacked self would appreciate the fact that a downpour then ensued. And yes, despite early heckling I had a raincoat and a pack cover. Vidication at last! Arrived at the harbor in the rain and were amazed that we were not hustled at all by the cops, thank you Lombok PD. Took the ferry back (saw Java in the distance) and parted ways with the Norwegians. They headed back down to Kuta and I was off to Ubud.
Funny thing about repetition in language - you really learn a phrase when you say it 45,000 times in one afternoon. Ke sama Ubud? (Which way to Ubud?) Incomprohesable gestures from the local, followed by my Terima Kasih (Thank you). Yet, despite my best efforts to get lost I discovered halfway though a town... I was in Ubud. Having no plan I pulled into an ally with a homestead sign and at the end found my current resting ground. A beautiful bungaloo with ornate carving and tile, bathtub, sitting room, hot water: and all looking over a picturesque rice patty field. This for 10 bucks a night. Set my bags down in time to watch the sunset and be served excellent hot tea. Walked out onto the town to discover I was 100 yards from 3 art galleries, 2 yoga studios, and a cafe with balsamic vinegar and feta cheese dressed pasta salad as a daily special. Needless to say, I have found nirvana. Dinner, and a walk to discover that everything is closed by 9, so I tucked myself in and listened to the instects chirp outside as the temp dropped to ~78 which felt rather cold.
Awoke this morning to chirping birds and hot tea on my porch over looking the patty fields. Walked over to the Yoga studio for a 2 hour class that was fantastic, and followed that up with excellent conversation with a bunch of Bobo's from the class (you'll have to read the book to catch the reference). Walked to the "Enchanted Monkey Forest" which proved to be rather amazing and picturesqe, and yes there were hordes of monkeys. Swapped books with a guy from Yoga and read on my porch as the afternoon sprinkle set in - while sipping more hot tea. I have found many Spring Break style tourist traps so far in Bali, but Ubud is the first tourist trap I would love to get trapped in.
Getting some great photos to post in a few days from Australia, and finally responding to email. Checking in with a huge smile from Ubud, Bali. --Trey
PS I love that I had no idea it was Valentines day until I read my email, it's great not to have commercialism sell you on the importance of a holiday.
Here's to catching up again.
Started out 5? days ago from Kuta, Bali. Karstein, Annetta,(The Norwegians as they are affectionately know) and I took off on motor bikes to Padangbai to catch the Ferry to Lombok (Next Indonesian island East of Bali). The drive was beautiful again with rice fields, palm trees, ocean, and locals not displaced by tourists. Arrived at Padangbai to enjoy my first taste of unabashed extrusion from a cop there when trying to buy my ferry ticket. With in a few minutes a bargain of 25,000 rupiah was agreed on for him to "let" us go to Lombok where our licenses were not valid. Mind you, that we were not doing anything wrong in Bali, where he was a cop. Took a 5 and 1/2 hour ferry ride to Lombok which was a cultural experience in it's own right. The 2 Swedes on the ferry and ourselves comprised the 5 Westerners out of ~300 passengers. We arrived at lumbar only to wait for the ferry that was docked to move (a process that took nearly an hour). I note this only because it should not have been a surprise that we were on the way. Hopped on the bikes and took off a full speed to evade the extorting cops and made it out of the harbor only to question which way we were going. It was nearing sunset (side note: there is no twilight here, sunset to dark in ~15 minutes) so we sped up the coast as fast as possible and pulled into sensuous, a nice little resort town. Here we checked into an expensive western hotel (135,000/night). We partook in hot water, bathtubs, and air conditioning. (queue the heavenly chorus) I slept like a retiree on a Sunday afternoon after lunch.
About 12 hours later I awoke from my comma, and joined the Norwegians for breakfast and a swim. We then decided that bangle (the public harbor serving traffic to the Giles) would not be a great place to leave our rented scooters unattended for days. So we charted a private boat to Gili Trawangan. We were to be whisked away by car and driver, taken to a harbor to catch our vessel for the 1:45 ride to the Giles. Instead, we walked with a guy to the harbor, waded through the surf to jump on a large dugout outrigger (maybe 20 feet long), driven by a 15 year old for the 3 hour ride to the Giles. Nonetheless it was fantastic. Beautiful views the whole way, and a bit exciting to be in a tiny and authentic boat in the open ocean. Arrived at the Gili's via a beach landing and walked to the Lonely Planet pick for rooms, which proved perfect. Got a room for 25,000/night (less than USD$3/night) which was in the village. Clean and had a private bathroom, working fan, and mosquito netting over the bed. (Funny the things you appreciate when living in places for 3 bucks a night) Funny thing about the Gilis is that there is basically no fresh water, that's right salt water showers, and salt water tooth brushings. And the locals couldn't love it more. (I commited the ultimate western sin and rinsed after a shower with bottled water as well as choosing the tastier but more expensive option for tooth brushing). Went and had a great dinner in a Bruga (Cabana style thing, you sit on the raised floor under a thatched roof) overlooking the crystal clear indian ocean. After dinner I was off for a drink and ran into brits from Kuta who insist I look them up when in the UK - gotta love the commoradery of travelers. Lastly to bed after seeing the sunset, milkly way, and a field of lights on the horizon which I learned were fishing boats. (Apprently you need a lot of fish to feed Indonesia)
Breakfast in the morning and then got some clothes washed. Waiting for them to dry I finished Bobo's in Paradise and read an Economist cover to cover. (things don't dry fast in this humidity, despite being 150 degrees out) Discovered my love for laying in a hammock in the south pacific reading about business from around the world. Also discovered a new distinction in clothing, most T-Shirts are too thick to be warn in the Gili's as they insulate to much - resorted to very light button ups. Went for a swim, talked to some folks, ate dinner, and crashed around 9. This is the good life.
Woke up to the mosque next door at 5 but went back to sleep. The heat got me out of bed by 9:30 and I went on to breakfast. (Another note: even toast takes over an hour to prepare on the Gili's) Followed up with a snorkeling trip on a guide boat. The water is like the carribean; I saw beautifull fish of a thousand varieties off Gili Trawangan, sea turtles off Gili Meno, and Giant Clams off Gili Air. Later I enjoyed a slow lunch on Gili Air, have I mentioned food is VERY slow in the Gili's. This is a good thing though as it puts you in the right frame of mind for how fast your days should be. (Trey's Law: The average heat of an enviroment is inversly proportional to the punctionality of it's people and their stress level.) Got back to Gili Trawangan for a walk around the island, then had diner and crashed at 9 again.
Woke up after trying to sleep in at 8. Went for a snorkle off the beach with the Norwegians and swam with 3 sea turtles! It was fantastic. And somehow 2 hours later I was still not sunburned (unlike my northern travel companions). Stopped for lunch and the rain set it. Left in a sprinkle 3 hours later and went back to read last few articles of the Economist. Then I joined the the Norwegians for dinner, drinks, and darts at a (no kidding) irish pub. Jesse, Julie, Craig and Tamara - wish you guys were here. I won at darts and then talked the Norwegians into bed around 11.
Woke up at 6 and rose the Norwegians so we could catch the 8 am boat back to Lombok. The "public" ferry in to Bangsal only goes once a full load of tickets are sold- but thankfully that only took an hour. Got to Bangsal to haggle for a cheap ride back to Singiggi where we picked up our scooters and sped for harbor at Lembar. Now anyone who has ever camped with my over-prepared, exceedingly overpacked self would appreciate the fact that a downpour then ensued. And yes, despite early heckling I had a raincoat and a pack cover. Vidication at last! Arrived at the harbor in the rain and were amazed that we were not hustled at all by the cops, thank you Lombok PD. Took the ferry back (saw Java in the distance) and parted ways with the Norwegians. They headed back down to Kuta and I was off to Ubud.
Funny thing about repetition in language - you really learn a phrase when you say it 45,000 times in one afternoon. Ke sama Ubud? (Which way to Ubud?) Incomprohesable gestures from the local, followed by my Terima Kasih (Thank you). Yet, despite my best efforts to get lost I discovered halfway though a town... I was in Ubud. Having no plan I pulled into an ally with a homestead sign and at the end found my current resting ground. A beautiful bungaloo with ornate carving and tile, bathtub, sitting room, hot water: and all looking over a picturesque rice patty field. This for 10 bucks a night. Set my bags down in time to watch the sunset and be served excellent hot tea. Walked out onto the town to discover I was 100 yards from 3 art galleries, 2 yoga studios, and a cafe with balsamic vinegar and feta cheese dressed pasta salad as a daily special. Needless to say, I have found nirvana. Dinner, and a walk to discover that everything is closed by 9, so I tucked myself in and listened to the instects chirp outside as the temp dropped to ~78 which felt rather cold.
Awoke this morning to chirping birds and hot tea on my porch over looking the patty fields. Walked over to the Yoga studio for a 2 hour class that was fantastic, and followed that up with excellent conversation with a bunch of Bobo's from the class (you'll have to read the book to catch the reference). Walked to the "Enchanted Monkey Forest" which proved to be rather amazing and picturesqe, and yes there were hordes of monkeys. Swapped books with a guy from Yoga and read on my porch as the afternoon sprinkle set in - while sipping more hot tea. I have found many Spring Break style tourist traps so far in Bali, but Ubud is the first tourist trap I would love to get trapped in.
Getting some great photos to post in a few days from Australia, and finally responding to email. Checking in with a huge smile from Ubud, Bali. --Trey
PS I love that I had no idea it was Valentines day until I read my email, it's great not to have commercialism sell you on the importance of a holiday.
Monday, February 07, 2005
When in Rome...
Well Karstein, Annetta, & I decided to splurge and eat out at a fantastic Japanese food restaurant last night. And it was truly fantastic. Beef & Lobster on a tepenyaki grill in a restaurant with A/C. I felt like I was in heaven. There was a serious pang of guilt though because at ~ USD$20, I spent a locals paycheck on a meal.
To continue acting like beach going tourists, we went to a club called fuel next. It was quite nice, just like being in New York or Philly. Drinks were only 50,000 rupia, or equal to the price of most hotel rooms on the island. Had a blast but realized later that we were 40 yards from the site of the Kuta Bombings from 2002. Sitting in this bar, drinking drinks that a local would never in there right mind buy, I realized that 200 people were doing the same and died. It's a crazy world we live in and I'm not sure how to always reconcile the good with the bad.
Getting ready to head off to Lombok tomorrow. This is a Muslim island next to Bali. A little curious how different the culture will be and if they will have any more animosity for Americans.
Checking out in Indonesia - Trey
To continue acting like beach going tourists, we went to a club called fuel next. It was quite nice, just like being in New York or Philly. Drinks were only 50,000 rupia, or equal to the price of most hotel rooms on the island. Had a blast but realized later that we were 40 yards from the site of the Kuta Bombings from 2002. Sitting in this bar, drinking drinks that a local would never in there right mind buy, I realized that 200 people were doing the same and died. It's a crazy world we live in and I'm not sure how to always reconcile the good with the bad.
Getting ready to head off to Lombok tomorrow. This is a Muslim island next to Bali. A little curious how different the culture will be and if they will have any more animosity for Americans.
Checking out in Indonesia - Trey
Sunday, February 06, 2005
I'm in heaven
I have finally found a place I can plug in my laptop and get an internet connection! I am currently listening to NPR, and I'm in heaven.
Sunburned from yesterday - so laying low, waiting for my credit card to arrive. Once that's in, I'll be off to the Gili Islands for a few days, and then to Australia. This place is wonderful - but it's too easy to just sit around sweating and wait for a month to pass. Can't wait to get to Australia and be running all over the country seeing things.
Sunburned from yesterday - so laying low, waiting for my credit card to arrive. Once that's in, I'll be off to the Gili Islands for a few days, and then to Australia. This place is wonderful - but it's too easy to just sit around sweating and wait for a month to pass. Can't wait to get to Australia and be running all over the country seeing things.
Saturday, February 05, 2005
It’s official - I’m an addict
I’m addicted to music, and well on may way to being addicted to travel. Here comes another catch-up entry, so get you may want to take a bathroom break.
Someday this past week –
Losing track of time, which is a fantastic thing. I decided to scoot up the East coast of Bali and look for the town of Padangbai. It should be about an hour and a half, but I managed to turn it into almost 4 and a half. Drove through the countryside, well as country as it gets here. Let’s keep in mind that Bali is about 100 x 25 miles and has a population approaching 10 million. (It does this without any urban density) Crossed beautiful bridges, ornate temples, lush mountains, palm trees, and all the while kept the dark blue ocean passing on the right. (soundtrack: Los Amigos Invisibles) Cruising on a mo-ped is so fantastic as it is the only place that feels cool in Bali, no where near James Dean cool, much closer to spring in Austin cool. Many times I rather purposely lost myself, one time in particular worked out fantastically. A side road wound through a small village, past some coconut fields, and then to the beach. I found a completely deserted, volcanic black sand beach. Blue water waves crashing into the steep black sand was one for the picture books. (pictures will eventually be posted). I did find Padangbai, a very cool looking tourist port with a ferry to Lombok. Seeing a point of land I had to drive out on it. From the top I saw a path off the far side. At the bottom I found myself alone in a small temple carved into the side of the cliff, overlooking the sea,… Bali is turning out okay. On the way back I stopped at a bridge to take pictures and was asked if I needed transportation, the kids bathing 100 feet below started motioning for money, I was sunburn and hot – definitely time to head home. Arrived at sunset and crashed.
Next Day –
Spent the day emailing and dealing with my credit card replacement. Card is on the way now, Jane & Chuck, you are my heros! Uneventful day, hot, bored, and decided for a change of pace to go drive the Mo-Ped. Hooked up the iPod listened to hip hop and basically raced through traffic. (Colin, while in Bali we don’t have to go bungee jumping or Jet Boating – you can just rent a Mo-Ped and drive it in traffic for thrills) Black Eyed Peas turned out to be a fantastic sound track to driving in Bali. So you can imagine it, just think of roads with 3 times too many vehicles, 80 percent mo-peds, with traffic lights and road stripes that are all but ignored. Everyone is in a rush and buzzing around each other, the wrong way down roads, all gas, all breaks, and no cops. As a dangerous pastime, it definitely ranks up there. To keep from breaking my neck the next day, I booked a snorkeling trip for 275,000 rupiah (a price only a Westerner would pay).
Mid-Week?
Left at 9 for my $30 snorkeling trip. Picked up by two people in a van. Driven 45 minutes to Nusa Dua in the South. Dropped off to a steward who gave me a locker and and flippers/mask. Passed then to a boat with a captain and crew member. I was then driven out to the reef by myself to snorkel with the crew swimming along to guide me to the best spots. (Have I mentioned 5 guys, a van, a boat, and an open facility for me alone?) Snorkeling was great, but would have been fantastic to go on a less windy week. Made friends with the crew and was invited to crawl around the wheelhouse along a 1 inch edge and sit on the bow. The Balinese crewmember and myself sat cross-legged on the bow and watched the eastern style fishing boats pass as we went to Turtle Island. Turtle Island is an “animal preserve” with sea turtles, snakes, bats, monkeys, owls, eagles, and fighting cocks. The fighting cocks are not out of place when you see how the animals are treated. 30 seconds into my hour tour I returned to the boat and we left again back to the beach. In route I noticed a Yacht Club! Asked my driver to stop by, but it was ¼ mile by boat and about 20 by car. So I returned to Kuta. Hungry I went to Matahari, the market center and found a grocery store. The grocery store is rather Western and I found peanut butter, jelly, & wheat bread. With a pb&j for lunch my spirit soared. I then decided to get a haircut…. At “Happy Salon” next to “Happy Snacks” I found a woman willing to wash, cut, and massage my scalp for about a buck fifty. This is fantastic expect the only description I could impart was “short” with a motion of my hands. All worked out quite well, but I still miss you Bianca. Came home to a clean room, clean sheets, and rediscovered my Yoga mat. (It’s amazing how tight I had become ignoring yoga for the past month and a half) Finished the day feeling that I had accomplished something, which was fantastic.
Oddly enough, I had been freaking out a bit about not doing any work. I saw myself as a guy in his physical and mental prime that had just ditched his job and life back home. I did not want to do this just to go get a damn tan. I want to accomplish something with my travel. I want to experience other cultures and learn about myself. Yet, when I started to question myself for playing in Bali I asked myself this: “What is harder for me: Stay at home, surrounded by family, friends, making a great living in beautiful Austin, or step off the edge of the world and see where I land with only myself to count on?” True I am not being challenged daily with work. I am playing on a paradise beach island. Yet, I am doing so rather freighted of the fact that I am 6,000 miles from home, in a third world country, and alone. It is being alone that is the biggest challenge for me, a fact those closest to me would appreciate. I am discovering what I am capable of being on my own, and it’s fantastic. Like I told my good friend George, I am working on building a quite confidence: a knowledge that all I need to be okay anywhere, I posses innately.
Yesterday…
Went Mo-ped’n down South to the Yacht Club by Nusa Duo. Met a great sailing couple from Canada 5 years into a circumnavigation. Apparently, Bali has the only marina in Indonesia. Cruised home, did some yoga and ate lunch. Began to feel board again and realized that no one is going to sweep me up and show me a good time. So I picked a spot of the map and scooted off. I ended up driving around the southern end of Bali, through many resorts, beaches, and even found myself at the end of a rough trail off the road only to discover yet another temple overlooking the sea. Yet, I have never seen water this beautiful. Clear blues and greens crashing ashore onto white sand beaches. Found more deserted beaches, and cruised on. A day full of Jack Johnson, G. Love, The Postal Service, and Donavon Frankenreiter. Ended up at the beautiful temple of Ula Watu approaching sunset. Amazing cliffs dropping hundreds of feet into the sea topped by 400 year old Hindu Temples. There were monkey running around and then, BAMM! From behind one jumped on my head from the wall 6 feet away. We both grabbed for my sunglasses and I ended up with 3/4 of them and the monkey got an arm to start nibbling on. A local showed me the trick of throwing food to the monkey and snagging back the item wanted. Decided not to pull out my camera here and left with blurry vision until I was safe to put my glasses back on. Cruised on to a turn off heading towards the water and found hill overlooking the ocean at sunset. Parked myself with my iPod and watched the sunset, lullabyed by Nora Joans, Nick Drake, and Patty Griffin. I could have been the only person on earth right then – and that would be just fine.
Drove home in the dark, ate dinner, and slept like a baby.
Well expect for the fact that my Malaria pill induced “vivid dreams” are getting rather vivid. At one point in the night, I was nearly convinced that I had split personalities with one taking over at night (ala Fight Club), but I was tired enough to just leave the night up to my alter ego as I just needed some sleep.
Today
A day of writing, reading, and swimming. Wearing a sarong for the first time, and wondering why it has taken me so long to find this wonderful garment. Went to the book store in Matahari looking for a NY Times or Economist to no avail. But realized that as long as I was in Indonesia, I might as well read to the Jakarta Post. Bush’s Inaugural address made front page news just below the article about war ships finishing up relief efforts. The US has won some serious brownie points here with the war ship help in the tsunami relief effort. I was in heaven with a business section, but began to sunburn.
Finding that I don’t have to shave much herew, and that time seems to slow dramatically. It feels like I’ve been gone for a month even though it’s only been a few weeks. I’m curious when I will stop feeling like I am just temporarily away, and start feeling like this is just my lifestyle. Can that happen? Does it require dissolving an idea of home? If so, I know I will always just feel like I am away for a bit. Being away from home is fantastic for facing loneliness. It is empowering to take full control for your own time and enjoyment. Met a beautiful, surfing, American girl at dinner (my first American, her 4th in a month) and discussed our plans. Found we were both going to go up to Ubud in the next few days. Yet, sensing a new side of me, I decided to not invite along this only other native English speaker. I decided I would enjoy that day more on my own.
So I finished up my day with a sunset soccer game on the beach with Balinese. Palm trees and chunks of coral as goals, I really enjoy the things that don’t need any translation. I think I am finally understanding the Bali culture: playfulness.
So I sign off with this thought from my day on the hill overlooking the sunset: A sunset always starts in the East. It hints at the colors and brilliance about to be displayed. This is how my travels are starting to feel
Someday this past week –
Losing track of time, which is a fantastic thing. I decided to scoot up the East coast of Bali and look for the town of Padangbai. It should be about an hour and a half, but I managed to turn it into almost 4 and a half. Drove through the countryside, well as country as it gets here. Let’s keep in mind that Bali is about 100 x 25 miles and has a population approaching 10 million. (It does this without any urban density) Crossed beautiful bridges, ornate temples, lush mountains, palm trees, and all the while kept the dark blue ocean passing on the right. (soundtrack: Los Amigos Invisibles) Cruising on a mo-ped is so fantastic as it is the only place that feels cool in Bali, no where near James Dean cool, much closer to spring in Austin cool. Many times I rather purposely lost myself, one time in particular worked out fantastically. A side road wound through a small village, past some coconut fields, and then to the beach. I found a completely deserted, volcanic black sand beach. Blue water waves crashing into the steep black sand was one for the picture books. (pictures will eventually be posted). I did find Padangbai, a very cool looking tourist port with a ferry to Lombok. Seeing a point of land I had to drive out on it. From the top I saw a path off the far side. At the bottom I found myself alone in a small temple carved into the side of the cliff, overlooking the sea,… Bali is turning out okay. On the way back I stopped at a bridge to take pictures and was asked if I needed transportation, the kids bathing 100 feet below started motioning for money, I was sunburn and hot – definitely time to head home. Arrived at sunset and crashed.
Next Day –
Spent the day emailing and dealing with my credit card replacement. Card is on the way now, Jane & Chuck, you are my heros! Uneventful day, hot, bored, and decided for a change of pace to go drive the Mo-Ped. Hooked up the iPod listened to hip hop and basically raced through traffic. (Colin, while in Bali we don’t have to go bungee jumping or Jet Boating – you can just rent a Mo-Ped and drive it in traffic for thrills) Black Eyed Peas turned out to be a fantastic sound track to driving in Bali. So you can imagine it, just think of roads with 3 times too many vehicles, 80 percent mo-peds, with traffic lights and road stripes that are all but ignored. Everyone is in a rush and buzzing around each other, the wrong way down roads, all gas, all breaks, and no cops. As a dangerous pastime, it definitely ranks up there. To keep from breaking my neck the next day, I booked a snorkeling trip for 275,000 rupiah (a price only a Westerner would pay).
Mid-Week?
Left at 9 for my $30 snorkeling trip. Picked up by two people in a van. Driven 45 minutes to Nusa Dua in the South. Dropped off to a steward who gave me a locker and and flippers/mask. Passed then to a boat with a captain and crew member. I was then driven out to the reef by myself to snorkel with the crew swimming along to guide me to the best spots. (Have I mentioned 5 guys, a van, a boat, and an open facility for me alone?) Snorkeling was great, but would have been fantastic to go on a less windy week. Made friends with the crew and was invited to crawl around the wheelhouse along a 1 inch edge and sit on the bow. The Balinese crewmember and myself sat cross-legged on the bow and watched the eastern style fishing boats pass as we went to Turtle Island. Turtle Island is an “animal preserve” with sea turtles, snakes, bats, monkeys, owls, eagles, and fighting cocks. The fighting cocks are not out of place when you see how the animals are treated. 30 seconds into my hour tour I returned to the boat and we left again back to the beach. In route I noticed a Yacht Club! Asked my driver to stop by, but it was ¼ mile by boat and about 20 by car. So I returned to Kuta. Hungry I went to Matahari, the market center and found a grocery store. The grocery store is rather Western and I found peanut butter, jelly, & wheat bread. With a pb&j for lunch my spirit soared. I then decided to get a haircut…. At “Happy Salon” next to “Happy Snacks” I found a woman willing to wash, cut, and massage my scalp for about a buck fifty. This is fantastic expect the only description I could impart was “short” with a motion of my hands. All worked out quite well, but I still miss you Bianca. Came home to a clean room, clean sheets, and rediscovered my Yoga mat. (It’s amazing how tight I had become ignoring yoga for the past month and a half) Finished the day feeling that I had accomplished something, which was fantastic.
Oddly enough, I had been freaking out a bit about not doing any work. I saw myself as a guy in his physical and mental prime that had just ditched his job and life back home. I did not want to do this just to go get a damn tan. I want to accomplish something with my travel. I want to experience other cultures and learn about myself. Yet, when I started to question myself for playing in Bali I asked myself this: “What is harder for me: Stay at home, surrounded by family, friends, making a great living in beautiful Austin, or step off the edge of the world and see where I land with only myself to count on?” True I am not being challenged daily with work. I am playing on a paradise beach island. Yet, I am doing so rather freighted of the fact that I am 6,000 miles from home, in a third world country, and alone. It is being alone that is the biggest challenge for me, a fact those closest to me would appreciate. I am discovering what I am capable of being on my own, and it’s fantastic. Like I told my good friend George, I am working on building a quite confidence: a knowledge that all I need to be okay anywhere, I posses innately.
Yesterday…
Went Mo-ped’n down South to the Yacht Club by Nusa Duo. Met a great sailing couple from Canada 5 years into a circumnavigation. Apparently, Bali has the only marina in Indonesia. Cruised home, did some yoga and ate lunch. Began to feel board again and realized that no one is going to sweep me up and show me a good time. So I picked a spot of the map and scooted off. I ended up driving around the southern end of Bali, through many resorts, beaches, and even found myself at the end of a rough trail off the road only to discover yet another temple overlooking the sea. Yet, I have never seen water this beautiful. Clear blues and greens crashing ashore onto white sand beaches. Found more deserted beaches, and cruised on. A day full of Jack Johnson, G. Love, The Postal Service, and Donavon Frankenreiter. Ended up at the beautiful temple of Ula Watu approaching sunset. Amazing cliffs dropping hundreds of feet into the sea topped by 400 year old Hindu Temples. There were monkey running around and then, BAMM! From behind one jumped on my head from the wall 6 feet away. We both grabbed for my sunglasses and I ended up with 3/4 of them and the monkey got an arm to start nibbling on. A local showed me the trick of throwing food to the monkey and snagging back the item wanted. Decided not to pull out my camera here and left with blurry vision until I was safe to put my glasses back on. Cruised on to a turn off heading towards the water and found hill overlooking the ocean at sunset. Parked myself with my iPod and watched the sunset, lullabyed by Nora Joans, Nick Drake, and Patty Griffin. I could have been the only person on earth right then – and that would be just fine.
Drove home in the dark, ate dinner, and slept like a baby.
Well expect for the fact that my Malaria pill induced “vivid dreams” are getting rather vivid. At one point in the night, I was nearly convinced that I had split personalities with one taking over at night (ala Fight Club), but I was tired enough to just leave the night up to my alter ego as I just needed some sleep.
Today
A day of writing, reading, and swimming. Wearing a sarong for the first time, and wondering why it has taken me so long to find this wonderful garment. Went to the book store in Matahari looking for a NY Times or Economist to no avail. But realized that as long as I was in Indonesia, I might as well read to the Jakarta Post. Bush’s Inaugural address made front page news just below the article about war ships finishing up relief efforts. The US has won some serious brownie points here with the war ship help in the tsunami relief effort. I was in heaven with a business section, but began to sunburn.
Finding that I don’t have to shave much herew, and that time seems to slow dramatically. It feels like I’ve been gone for a month even though it’s only been a few weeks. I’m curious when I will stop feeling like I am just temporarily away, and start feeling like this is just my lifestyle. Can that happen? Does it require dissolving an idea of home? If so, I know I will always just feel like I am away for a bit. Being away from home is fantastic for facing loneliness. It is empowering to take full control for your own time and enjoyment. Met a beautiful, surfing, American girl at dinner (my first American, her 4th in a month) and discussed our plans. Found we were both going to go up to Ubud in the next few days. Yet, sensing a new side of me, I decided to not invite along this only other native English speaker. I decided I would enjoy that day more on my own.
So I finished up my day with a sunset soccer game on the beach with Balinese. Palm trees and chunks of coral as goals, I really enjoy the things that don’t need any translation. I think I am finally understanding the Bali culture: playfulness.
So I sign off with this thought from my day on the hill overlooking the sunset: A sunset always starts in the East. It hints at the colors and brilliance about to be displayed. This is how my travels are starting to feel
Wednesday, February 02, 2005
Change of plans v.2 & new phone number
Well I have broken down, the guy who couldn't wait to be without a cell phone has gotten one again. It's only when I am on the other side of the world when I begin to appreciate how important communication is with family and friends. (again thank you all for comments, by the way email me when you can as I cannot respond to comments) Of course it's also nice to have a phone to catch up with my Norwegian friends for dinner here.
So here's the number: 011-62-81933-010834*
*some phones want you to replace the 011 with "+"
I should be able to text message from this number and everyone is welcome to call, despite the fact that it will cost you about $1.50/minute. (free to accept calls).
PS to the parents, this is a second number as the first didn't allow text messages with US.
As for the mo-ped diaries - they'll be a bit different. Got a credit card stolen so I will be sleeping nights in Kuta and mo-peding out during the day while I await the replacement. Then I got a bit of "Bali Belly" and was stuck in my room with a fever for 2 days. Bali is amazing, beautiful, and hot. Yet it is overrun with tourists, and it is exhausting to deal with the never ending push of the locals to cheat you blind. They have no problem whatsoever asking a price 30 x the actual price. And, as a foreigner it is a challenge to know the difference. I really have to wonder about the effect of tourism on their culture. I am also curious about how they reconcile being a good person (which I believe nearly everyone really is) and basically stealing from someone else? Is it left over disdain from Colonialism? Is it an effect of not traveling and not understanding why these crazy, rich, white people come here to throw away there money? Or just greed? I also have to wonder if we do the same to foreingers in the US? Whatever it is, my mission before I leave is to penetrate this segregation between local and westerner and learn something about Balinese people and culture. Only time will tell if I am successful. Peace out from Bali- Trey
So here's the number: 011-62-81933-010834*
*some phones want you to replace the 011 with "+"
I should be able to text message from this number and everyone is welcome to call, despite the fact that it will cost you about $1.50/minute. (free to accept calls).
PS to the parents, this is a second number as the first didn't allow text messages with US.
As for the mo-ped diaries - they'll be a bit different. Got a credit card stolen so I will be sleeping nights in Kuta and mo-peding out during the day while I await the replacement. Then I got a bit of "Bali Belly" and was stuck in my room with a fever for 2 days. Bali is amazing, beautiful, and hot. Yet it is overrun with tourists, and it is exhausting to deal with the never ending push of the locals to cheat you blind. They have no problem whatsoever asking a price 30 x the actual price. And, as a foreigner it is a challenge to know the difference. I really have to wonder about the effect of tourism on their culture. I am also curious about how they reconcile being a good person (which I believe nearly everyone really is) and basically stealing from someone else? Is it left over disdain from Colonialism? Is it an effect of not traveling and not understanding why these crazy, rich, white people come here to throw away there money? Or just greed? I also have to wonder if we do the same to foreingers in the US? Whatever it is, my mission before I leave is to penetrate this segregation between local and westerner and learn something about Balinese people and culture. Only time will tell if I am successful. Peace out from Bali- Trey
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