Catching up from Ubud

Well here's to gettin' around. Definitely having a blast and nearly wishing I didn't have to leave "so" soon. I have really had the relative length of stays distorted at this point. Over three weeks feels almost quick.

Here's to catching up again.

Started out 5? days ago from Kuta, Bali. Karstein, Annetta,(The Norwegians as they are affectionately know) and I took off on motor bikes to Padangbai to catch the Ferry to Lombok (Next Indonesian island East of Bali). The drive was beautiful again with rice fields, palm trees, ocean, and locals not displaced by tourists. Arrived at Padangbai to enjoy my first taste of unabashed extrusion from a cop there when trying to buy my ferry ticket. With in a few minutes a bargain of 25,000 rupiah was agreed on for him to "let" us go to Lombok where our licenses were not valid. Mind you, that we were not doing anything wrong in Bali, where he was a cop. Took a 5 and 1/2 hour ferry ride to Lombok which was a cultural experience in it's own right. The 2 Swedes on the ferry and ourselves comprised the 5 Westerners out of ~300 passengers. We arrived at lumbar only to wait for the ferry that was docked to move (a process that took nearly an hour). I note this only because it should not have been a surprise that we were on the way. Hopped on the bikes and took off a full speed to evade the extorting cops and made it out of the harbor only to question which way we were going. It was nearing sunset (side note: there is no twilight here, sunset to dark in ~15 minutes) so we sped up the coast as fast as possible and pulled into sensuous, a nice little resort town. Here we checked into an expensive western hotel (135,000/night). We partook in hot water, bathtubs, and air conditioning. (queue the heavenly chorus) I slept like a retiree on a Sunday afternoon after lunch.

About 12 hours later I awoke from my comma, and joined the Norwegians for breakfast and a swim. We then decided that bangle (the public harbor serving traffic to the Giles) would not be a great place to leave our rented scooters unattended for days. So we charted a private boat to Gili Trawangan. We were to be whisked away by car and driver, taken to a harbor to catch our vessel for the 1:45 ride to the Giles. Instead, we walked with a guy to the harbor, waded through the surf to jump on a large dugout outrigger (maybe 20 feet long), driven by a 15 year old for the 3 hour ride to the Giles. Nonetheless it was fantastic. Beautiful views the whole way, and a bit exciting to be in a tiny and authentic boat in the open ocean. Arrived at the Gili's via a beach landing and walked to the Lonely Planet pick for rooms, which proved perfect. Got a room for 25,000/night (less than USD$3/night) which was in the village. Clean and had a private bathroom, working fan, and mosquito netting over the bed. (Funny the things you appreciate when living in places for 3 bucks a night) Funny thing about the Gilis is that there is basically no fresh water, that's right salt water showers, and salt water tooth brushings. And the locals couldn't love it more. (I commited the ultimate western sin and rinsed after a shower with bottled water as well as choosing the tastier but more expensive option for tooth brushing). Went and had a great dinner in a Bruga (Cabana style thing, you sit on the raised floor under a thatched roof) overlooking the crystal clear indian ocean. After dinner I was off for a drink and ran into brits from Kuta who insist I look them up when in the UK - gotta love the commoradery of travelers. Lastly to bed after seeing the sunset, milkly way, and a field of lights on the horizon which I learned were fishing boats. (Apprently you need a lot of fish to feed Indonesia)

Breakfast in the morning and then got some clothes washed. Waiting for them to dry I finished Bobo's in Paradise and read an Economist cover to cover. (things don't dry fast in this humidity, despite being 150 degrees out) Discovered my love for laying in a hammock in the south pacific reading about business from around the world. Also discovered a new distinction in clothing, most T-Shirts are too thick to be warn in the Gili's as they insulate to much - resorted to very light button ups. Went for a swim, talked to some folks, ate dinner, and crashed around 9. This is the good life.

Woke up to the mosque next door at 5 but went back to sleep. The heat got me out of bed by 9:30 and I went on to breakfast. (Another note: even toast takes over an hour to prepare on the Gili's) Followed up with a snorkeling trip on a guide boat. The water is like the carribean; I saw beautifull fish of a thousand varieties off Gili Trawangan, sea turtles off Gili Meno, and Giant Clams off Gili Air. Later I enjoyed a slow lunch on Gili Air, have I mentioned food is VERY slow in the Gili's. This is a good thing though as it puts you in the right frame of mind for how fast your days should be. (Trey's Law: The average heat of an enviroment is inversly proportional to the punctionality of it's people and their stress level.) Got back to Gili Trawangan for a walk around the island, then had diner and crashed at 9 again.

Woke up after trying to sleep in at 8. Went for a snorkle off the beach with the Norwegians and swam with 3 sea turtles! It was fantastic. And somehow 2 hours later I was still not sunburned (unlike my northern travel companions). Stopped for lunch and the rain set it. Left in a sprinkle 3 hours later and went back to read last few articles of the Economist. Then I joined the the Norwegians for dinner, drinks, and darts at a (no kidding) irish pub. Jesse, Julie, Craig and Tamara - wish you guys were here. I won at darts and then talked the Norwegians into bed around 11.

Woke up at 6 and rose the Norwegians so we could catch the 8 am boat back to Lombok. The "public" ferry in to Bangsal only goes once a full load of tickets are sold- but thankfully that only took an hour. Got to Bangsal to haggle for a cheap ride back to Singiggi where we picked up our scooters and sped for harbor at Lembar. Now anyone who has ever camped with my over-prepared, exceedingly overpacked self would appreciate the fact that a downpour then ensued. And yes, despite early heckling I had a raincoat and a pack cover. Vidication at last! Arrived at the harbor in the rain and were amazed that we were not hustled at all by the cops, thank you Lombok PD. Took the ferry back (saw Java in the distance) and parted ways with the Norwegians. They headed back down to Kuta and I was off to Ubud.

Funny thing about repetition in language - you really learn a phrase when you say it 45,000 times in one afternoon. Ke sama Ubud? (Which way to Ubud?) Incomprohesable gestures from the local, followed by my Terima Kasih (Thank you). Yet, despite my best efforts to get lost I discovered halfway though a town... I was in Ubud. Having no plan I pulled into an ally with a homestead sign and at the end found my current resting ground. A beautiful bungaloo with ornate carving and tile, bathtub, sitting room, hot water: and all looking over a picturesque rice patty field. This for 10 bucks a night. Set my bags down in time to watch the sunset and be served excellent hot tea. Walked out onto the town to discover I was 100 yards from 3 art galleries, 2 yoga studios, and a cafe with balsamic vinegar and feta cheese dressed pasta salad as a daily special. Needless to say, I have found nirvana. Dinner, and a walk to discover that everything is closed by 9, so I tucked myself in and listened to the instects chirp outside as the temp dropped to ~78 which felt rather cold.

Awoke this morning to chirping birds and hot tea on my porch over looking the patty fields. Walked over to the Yoga studio for a 2 hour class that was fantastic, and followed that up with excellent conversation with a bunch of Bobo's from the class (you'll have to read the book to catch the reference). Walked to the "Enchanted Monkey Forest" which proved to be rather amazing and picturesqe, and yes there were hordes of monkeys. Swapped books with a guy from Yoga and read on my porch as the afternoon sprinkle set in - while sipping more hot tea. I have found many Spring Break style tourist traps so far in Bali, but Ubud is the first tourist trap I would love to get trapped in.

Getting some great photos to post in a few days from Australia, and finally responding to email. Checking in with a huge smile from Ubud, Bali. --Trey

PS I love that I had no idea it was Valentines day until I read my email, it's great not to have commercialism sell you on the importance of a holiday.